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在线阅读 --哲学社会科学版 2021年1期《服饰与上海女学生形象(1907-1922)》
服饰与上海女学生形象(1907-1922)--[在线阅读]
黄永豪
香港科技大学 华南研究中心, 香港 990077
起止页码: 56--69页
DOI:
摘要
20世纪初期女学生的形象和服饰皆是中国社会的新事物,究竟“应该”是怎样的,并没有任何先例,包括女学生在内的社会各群体皆在探索,尝试发出自己的声音。知识分子仍从妇女的角度来定义女学生这一社会新群体,要求她们遵守固有的社会规范。而女学生则以发辫、刘海、窄的衣裳、金丝眼镜和操服等受到外人所批评的服饰来表达她们是时代新群体的诉求,服饰成为建构女学生形象的重要媒介。到了20纪纪20年代初期,女学生的服饰成为上海妇女服饰的潮流,操衣、围巾和毛衣就是明显的证据,这说明女学生成为一个具有鲜明形象的社会群体。这一时期女学生形象发生明显改变的部分原因是她们参与了五四运动。一手拿着标语,一手拿着书本的形象最具代表意义,展示女学生既爱国又追求知识。“爱国”的帽子减轻了女学生因为“时髦”和“时式装”服饰而受到的批评。

Apparel, Personal Adornments and the Image of Shanghai Female Students: 1907-1922
HUANG Yonghao
South China Research Center, The Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, Hong Kong 990077, China
Abstract:
The images of female students and their apparel and personal adornments in the early 20th century were all new things in Chinese society. There was no precedent for what they “should” be. All social groups, including female students, were exploring and trying to make their voices. Intellectuals still defined female students, a new social group, as women, and required them to abide by the inherent social norms of women. Female students, on the other hand, expressed their demands as a new group of the time with their braids, bangs, narrow garments, gold-rimmed glasses and sportswear, which were criticized by outsiders. Apparel and personal adornments had become important media to construct the image of female students in their striving for equality between men and women, pursuing freedom and breaking traditional norms. By the early 1920s, female students' apparel and personal adornments had become the fashion for Shanghai women, with sportswear, scarves and sweaters as clear evidence, which showed that female students had become a distinct social group. Part of the reason why the image of female students changed significantly in the early 1920s was that female students participated in the May Fourth Movement (4 May 1919). The image of holding a slogan in one hand and a book in the other is the most representative, showing that female students are patriotic and pursuing knowledge. “Patriotism” was a complimentary hat that relieved the criticism of female students for their fashionable way of dressing.

收稿日期: 2020-09-20
基金项目:

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